the jazzfest is a music/food/art festival all in one. i've been going to the jazz fest for almost 10 years now (missed it last year cause i had a baby), and while it has gotten HUGE, its still a very special event. the jazz and gospel tents, which are right next to each other on the festival grounds, are two of the best stages for catching a bit of the magic.
i would suggest checking out The Sweet Olive b and b, located in the marigney section, which was not hit by the flood waters, and is within walking distance to the fairgrounds.
to get around, rent a bike. or walk, its always interesting.
music schedules are always published in a local magazine and handed out at the main gates of the fairgrounds--dont bother printing out anything beforehand.
and while at the fest, be sure to find yourself a parade, drink lots of sweet tea, sample all the foods you can stomach at the festival--they are ALL good, and look for the paintings of terrance osborne.
enjoi!